Established in 1954, this upmarket meyhane is a great starting point to immerse yourself in meze culture and acquire a taste for rakı. Gravel voiced Refik Arslan still meets patrons at the door, including a devoted clientele of leftie hacks and intellectuals. Most regulars drink more than they eat, but the place is renowned for seafood dishes from the Black Sea. If in doubt, point to your choice in the glass-fronted fridge. There's no music, as it would interfere with the animated conversation. Reservation is required for weekend. Another pleasure is the tables on the street in summer.